Collateral Repair Project…

It’s a small organization that tries to fill a giant need. Not many people are familiar [let alone aware] of the plights of Iraqi refugees living in Jordan. Actually, not many people even know there are Iraqi refugees in Jordan. It’s no big surprise really. We viewed the invasion of Iraq from across the ocean in our TV sets. Nobody could really see that there were actual people living in the cities and homes that were destroyed by military actions. All we heard about were ‘insurgents’ and the ‘terrorist networks’; we didn’t hear anything about Ghazwan, ‘Adel, or Abu Hassan - all fathers with families to support, just trying to get by living in Baghdad. Fathers, mothers, sisters, brothers, sons, and daughters - many fled Iraq after the invasion, because the government infrastructure crashed, and after Saddam was deposed, sectarian revolts sprang up nationwide targeting anyone and everyone. Nobody could trust anyone because nobody knew for sure who was persecuting who anymore.

In search of asylum, many Iraqi refugees fled to Jordan. However, Jordan simply became the beginning of a whole new set of trials and challenges. They fled violence and terror in exchange for exploitation and the fear of not being able to provide for their family. Without residency and workers’ permits, Iraqi refugees live in silence amongst the ordinary community off of meager stipends [ex. 75 JD for family of two/1 month] provided for by UNHCR [United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees] that are supposed to cover rent, utilities, and all daily necessities. Many seek resettlement in the U.S. or Europe, but such a bureaucratic process is never a certainty.

These are people with families that once had stable lives - pursuing a career, going to school, raising families. Now, they live in poverty, even though many are highly skilled and highly motivated. They seek a new future, but many roadblocks stand in their way. However, small grass-roots organizations like CRP continue to play a role in assisting this marginalized community in any way they can: teaching English, helping with resettlement processes, providing daily necessities. Spread the word. The voice of these Iraqi refugees are view, but they need to be heard.

The Holy City..

Jerusalem (Old City) is home to some of the holiest sites of the three Abrahamic faiths (Christianity, Islam, and Judaism). It has been a city conquered again and again throughout history, desired for its religious significance - the site of the Crucifixion and Resurrection, the site of Muhammad’s Night Journey, the site of the Foundation Stone, the site Abraham’s sacrifice, the site where Adam is buried, the list goes on and on…

Still, the most miraculous aspect about this city isn’t comprised of these ancient buildings, nor the designated holy sites, but it’s comprised of the very people who live and have been living in this city. Thousands of people from different religious, cultural, and ethnic backgrounds all live together in the Old City. The interplay between the three major religious communities (Christian, Jewish, and Muslim) is quite an interesting relationship. 

The current division of the city quarters are not the same ones as they were in the past. When the Jews held authority over the city, there wasn’t a designated Jewish Quarter, but once Salah ad-Din conquered the city, a Jewish Quarter was set up. Now, the Jewish Quarter occupies the opposite corner of where it used to be. This is true for all the ‘Quarters’ of the city and hence you will find mosques in the Jewish Quarter, churches in  the Muslim Quarter, and synagogues in the Christian Quarter. It is impossible to draw clear cut lines to divide up the Old City into exclusive regions. Everyone shares the land, everyone shares this city.

One can even argue that some of the biggest divisions between communities aren’t the ones that exist between the three religions, but within each religion. For example, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher - the holiest site for Christians built over Golgotha (the Protestants disagree) - is divided up by several Christian churches: Greek, Syrian, Ethiopian, and Coptic Orthodox Churches, the Roman Catholics, and the Armenian Apostolic Church. Relations between all these churches remained extremely strained to this day. Fights have broken out during services as recent as 2008. The keys to this church were confiscated by Salah ad-Din and given to a Muslim family so that they will be in charge of opening and closing the church; to this day (more than 800 years after) the key is the hands of that Muslim family.

The disagreements and infighting was so petty that not one of these churches was deemed worthy to be in charge of the church’s doors. The fact that a Muslim third-party has been the custodian of the key to this day can serve as an example of a very practical example of interfaith relations. However, on the flip-side it speaks to the extreme division that exists within Christianity. Unfortunately, the one body of Christ is not existent within the walls of this church. Division and rituals fill this church. Mere symbols of what Christ stood for and what he taught are all that remains. Religiosity at its finest.

It is unfortunate that the biggest example of a contradiction to interfaith relations is not found between the three Abrahamic faiths, but rather within one of its own. Whereas, once we move away from the interiors of the walls and look beyond them, the interlaced lives of the inhabitants of the Old City speak much more truly about interfaith relations and how a community of different faiths can sustain one another for centuries.

Holy Sites…

There exists an ongoing tension between mainline ‘orthodox’ Sunnis and… the others (excluding the extremists in both groups) about whether or not visiting shrines/burial sites is Islamic in its ‘proper’ sense. Of course, allowing it and tolerating it is another questions, but the question here is, whether or not, such visits can be considered Islamic. Is it simply an extra-Islamic tradition and practice that is simply allowed and practiced by Muslims world-wide? And if so, why?

The why is an easier question - there is no single simple answer. Everyone has different reasons why they visit these places -  to pay respect, act of adoration, or they believe that praying in these specific areas is more effective. Regardless of the why, people who visit these sites and pray there are automatically judged to be either superstitious or desperate by those who feel visiting these shrines/burial sites is un-Islamic.

I honestly don’t know whether somebody visits the grave of a Companion of the Prophet with expectations that God may hear his/her prayer better there, or if they’re simply visiting to pay their respects to this Companion. It’s impossible to see the intentions and beliefs that lie underneath everyone’s actions. Yet, it’s safe to say that there’s plenty of judgment going around.

At the end of the day, if such acts reinforce the faith of a believer, then perhaps it can be considered a win. All anyone can wish for and should wish for is that the believer will only grow closer to his/her God. We all have our special places we like to go to when we want to talk to God. For some people, it just so happens that somebody is buried there.

Hobey-ho!

Social Pressures…

Regardless of where you live on Earth, you can not escape being exposed to some sort of social pressure or another. Whether it pressures one to become more liberal/conservative, pious/self-seeking, this or that, at the end of the day, we as human beings are constantly pressured by those around us. One can learn to live amidst these pressures, but one can not truly live life without reacting to them one way or another [whether to choose to follow them, or go against them].

Life in the Middle East [specifically Amman, Jordan] comes with its own bundle of social pressures. Albeit, these social pressures may manifest in different forms than they may in the States, or other Western countries, one can be surprised by the similar issues they face [ex: image, reputation, gossip]. 

When talking to those living in this region, you quickly realize that although their issues and problems may appear different at first glance, the roots of these issues are the same worldwide. Girls in this region still struggle with the pressure of self-image and how their peers may judge them. The hijab [both the head-covering as well as the moderate sense of dress] does not act in any way to decrease the amount of stress/anxiety that a girl may feel about her image. It still exists. Showing less skin or dressing modestly does not change the fact that people will judge you one way or another.

Also, it was very interesting to find out that, there is almost a reverse-pressure acting to counteract the traditional culture of hijab. Western businesses tend to discourage the wearing of a hijab, even if the employers themselves are Arab nationals. One would think, an Arab woman would have no problems fitting in to society here with her hijab, but that is just not the case anymore. Social norms state that a woman should dress in a hijab-manner, yet the work-field requires her to take off her hijab. How can she balance the social norm and her job requirement? Is she forced to compromise between getting hired and her personal convictions and freedom of choice? Could this simply not be another ploy to keep Arab women out of the work field?

Living in this country and observing a myriad of social pressures acting upon both male/female, the young/old, and  the religious/non-religious has taught me that regardless of where you may find yourself, people are people.

We all strive to live our lives - sometimes with the grain, and sometimes against - without folding to the pressures of life

When Peace can’t be found…

Seek the Lord.

When Hope can’t be found…

Seek the Lord.

When Love can’t be found…

Seek the Lord

And you will start finding all of these around you.

Rock…

Petra is ‘rock’ in Greek. There’s a lot of them here [the rocks].

It was once home to the Nabataeans - a pre-Islamic pagan community. They built a thriving city situated in the valley with intricate waterways and irrigation systems. The few lasting monuments from this society are: the Treasury, the Monastery [Al-Dier], a couple of temples and Hadrian’s Gate.

It is also claimed to be the burial site of Aaron [Moses’ brother], but the Egyptians will say differently. Also, it is supposed to be the place where Moses struck the rock causing water to flow out [probably another reason why this place is called Petra].

It’s a beautiful place surrounded sweeping deserts and valleys.

Bedouins still live around and try to make a living selling trinkets. They have deceptively American accents when they speak English, which actually creeps me out, but I’m sure it’s a great marketing move. Donkey rides are available to the Monastery, and camel rides all through the lower path leading to the Treasury.

**I have to note that the Monastery does look slightly different than how it came out in Transformers.

Hobey-ho!

Valley of Rum…

is what Wadi Rum means in English.

No… there is no rum in Wadi Rum, except for in the name itself.

However, what it lacks in rum, it is abundant with beauty and majesty. The sand carved rock formations stand as testaments to majestic Creation. The serenity that one can find out in the sandy expanse of Wadi Rum is beyond peaceful.

What was once a land filled by the sea, is now left completely dry. Water is not just symbolic for life - it is life - in Wadi Rum.

For me, this arid land is my favorite visit as of yet. The desert is not just a place without water, barren of life, and simply empty. It is a place of intimacy and serenity. The people around you become the closest ties you make and the most important relationships you have. Everything is cherished. Nothing can be taken for granted.

I have found that in this emptiness, there can be fullness. In the silence, you can hear a voice - a whisper. It is when we are completely alone and displaced, do we truly realize how surrounded we are, and how at home we have always been. When we standing alone by ourselves, that is when we can truly realize that we have been standing in the presence of our Lover all along.

The desert is not a lonely place. It is an intimate place.

The desert is not a place without life. It is a place where Life can be found.

I yearn for my desert place.

Hobey-ho!

Royalty…

This past weekend, we were able to have the honor of having the presence of royalty around us.

On a random trip to a soap making shop in Ajloun [located north of Amman], we happened to meet Princess Rahma [cousin of current King Abdullah II] and her family. Her husband is the current Minister of Transport. The royal family was taking a nice hike through surrounding area of Ajloun, and were on their way home as they dropped by the soap shop, which she personally buys from.

Two quick observations:

1. Her and her family seemed like any ordinary family.

2. She spoke English fluently.

It helps one realize that even if you’re of royal lineage, people are still people [speaking English fluently has nothing to do with this however, that was just a random observation]. Even royalty have to deal with the joy and burdens of family life. Family vacations are still very much important for family dynamic [granted they may get to go places normal people wouldn’t]. It was a great first impression of the royalty living here in Jordan.

Hobey-ho!

Salt…

The Dead Sea is filled with it. What some regard as the former location of Sodom and Gomorrah is now just a really cool place to float for people all over the world.

Across the sea, you can see Palestine and Israel in the distance. It almost makes you feel like you could swim across [more so with the ultra-buoyancy helping you out].

The mineral rich, therapeutic, 80 degrees warm water coupled with the low levels of ultraviolet rays makes the Dead Sea a really great place for your skin to hang out. The lack of UV-Rays is due to the sheer density of atmosphere. The Dead Sea is geographically the lowest place you can be on land, hence the really thick layer of atmosphere protecting you.

You really can’t ever get over the feeling of floating without effort [especially for someone with almost zero natural buoyancy]. Luckily, it’s a mere 40 minute drive from Amman.

Hobey-ho!

UJ…

University of Jordan.

School to about 40,000 students from all over Jordan [and the world].

This will be my little hub of academia for the next 3 months.

It’s very wide and spaced out. Lots of buildings. Lots of painted trees.

**The trees are painted over in order to protect it from a species of mosquito that lay their eggs in the tree.

It will have to do.

Hobey-ho!